PCT #4: Our First Zero, Miles 154-179
Spoiler: We made it to Idyllwild!
Idyllwild is rumoured to be the best town in Southern California along the PCT, so we decided to take a zero. No hiking for a full day, yippie!
This delicious ice cream was purchased from Idyllwild Ice Cream & Jerky. We were slowly learning that California’s were obsessed with their Jerky, so naturally I bought three bags.
We slept right next to another tent, as there were limited wind free, flat spots. Rather than risk waking them up as we cooked and ate breakfast, we decided to pack up and eat a few miles into our day. We stopped at a flat rock with a view of the valley and the tall mountains we would soon be climbing. Today was a big day. We were aiming to do more than 3000 feet of elevation, had to carry enough water to do that elevation in the heat of the day and walk along some of the sketchiest portions of the pct.
Our breakfast view!
There was a 12 mile stretch without water and the water sources on either end were significantly off trail, with their own elevation gain. The first had 300 feet elevation change and was 0.2 miles off trail and the second had 500 feet elevation change and was 0.6 miles off trail. The second one was clearly worse, especially considering it was at the end of a long day. We would work as a team. One person would collect water while the other waited with the packs. The trouble was, who would do the second water source? Like all our disputes on trail, we settled it with rock, paper, scissors. Unfortunately, I was learning that I suck at Rock Paper Scissors or Syd can read minds. I hadn’t learnt this yet, so I agreed and as we can guess, I lost. Darn. The good news is that I had enough energy and time to work on this newsletter as Syd collected water from the first source.
The views were incredible as we ascended. We could see Mount San Jacinto and the valley floor with Palm Springs. We would walk for miles in this alpine meadow, and the trail would switch sides to have views of both. The wind was fierce when we got exposed, showing no mercy and whipping our hair around.
We are excited as we crest our last climb of the day, soon we will be in camp. First though, I must fetch our water for tonight and tomorrow and then we must walk along a ridge to camp. The walk down to the water is steep and long, but by the time I arrive, the sun is in its golden hour. It’s a couple hours before sunset and the yellow light bathes the mountain and valley. The water source is clear and cold. Someone has crafted a wooden trough in the middle of a tiny trickling stream. This trough allows the water to gather, so we can easily scoop up litres at a time.
What makes the next section difficult is the mix of snow, ice, narrow paths and cliff drop offs. We started the trail later than most, in late April, so the snow is melted which makes our journey significantly safer. The trail follows the ridge between rock faced peaks. At points, it’s clear that the trail is man made - many rocks are staked on top of each other to build up the trail against a rock cliff. Horses aren’t allowed on this portion of the trail due to the precarious nature of these trails. We enjoy the views, walk carefully and make our way to our campsite nestled between two small peaks. With the sun almost gone, the temperature drops and it’s a quick dinner before we are cozy in our sleeping bags.
As usual, the wind picks up at night except tonight it is deafening. You can hear the wind hit the mountains before it hits the tent. I stay awake in anticipation of the next gust pulling my tent up. Our spot is quite sheltered, so not every gust I hear rustles the tent. This seems to make my anxiety worse, as I can’t anticipate when my tent will rattle. Instead I just have to wait and see what will happen, with every third or so gust smacking my tent.
The man-made trail along a cliff.
We wake early in anticipation of getting to town. This is our longest stretch without a shower or laundry at 7 days. My shirt is really starting to smell and turn brown with dust. I’m thankful that I shipped a T-shirt to Warner Springs and can change into it just before town to look and feel more presentable for the hitch. Although it’s a short day at 8.5 miles (+2.5 for the side trail), we make slow progress due to many blow downs. Blow downs are trees that have fallen across the path. Forest fires have burnt through a few of the parks we walk through and they leave many fallen trees in their wake. Most of the time we can maneuver over them, but sometimes we have to crawl under or try to go around. We cross a tree every 20 or so steps, and our pace is so slow we worry we won’t make it to the post office before closing.
Thus far we’ve managed to arrive in each town on a Saturday and it looks like the trend will continue as towns have been about 6 days apart. This isn’t ideal as post offices are typically closed over the weekend and hotels book up for weekend trips. We have a very special package to pick up and need to get there before 3pm.
Syd’s feet have been getting beaten up since we started. She now has a blister on almost every toe. The shoes she has enjoyed and used for years have become too small with the heat and incessant walking. In Julian, she was able to find some used shoes to try from the hiker box, but they were a half size too small. A few days later, with a spot of service the trail, Syd ordered a new pair to be delivered to Idyllwild. With next day shipping they should have arrived Friday which means we should have no problem picking them up today. I also ordered a new, lighter charger for my battery bank.
We make it to the side trail, which will take us into Idyllwild a little after 11am. In another 2.5 miles straight down, we will be at a parking lot just a few miles out of town. It’s Saturday, so we pass many families, couples and dogs out for a hike. I’ve heard this said before but never believed it - we can literally smell the soap on people as they pass. A bit worrying as this means we likely smell the opposite of fresh soap. Despite my clean shirt, I’m self conscious and try to step as far off trail as possible to let them pass. With all these people, I don’t think it will be hard to find a hitch into Idyllwild and it isn’t. As soon as we reach the trail head, we notice two other hikers being dropped off. Syd, the braver of the two of us, asks for a ride into town and to our delight he agrees! He had just hiked the section from paradise valley cafe to Idyllwild a few days earlier with his cousins whom he is now dropping off. He lives in San Diego and can drop us off on his way home.
Idyllwild is a cute, mountain town bustling with tourists. It has many restaurants, a brewery, two grocery stores and a movie theatre all within walking distance. We pass two mega tour busses on our drive into the centre. We are too early to check in or go to the post office so the next best option is warm, fresh food.
We choose a spot in the corner of a cute diner, away from as many people as possible. I can’t decide what is more rude leaving my hat on, salt stains and all, or taking it off and displaying the state of my hair. I decide to keep it on.
We stop by the post office after lunch and neither of our packages have arrived, very strange considering mine should have arrived on Tuesday. We check into the hotel, don loner clothes, do laundry and take showers. Loner clothes are clothes provided by hotels and angels for hikers so they can wash all their clothes. We look a little ridiculous as nothing fits, but the clean clothes are awesome to wear after a shower. We wander around town, doing more errands and try to determine what happened to our mail.
Turns out I completely forgot that you can only mail by United States Postal Service (USPS) to General Delivery. General Delivery is a very handy service offered by USPS and allows anyone to mail packages directly to a post office in any US city. Both Syd and I had our packages shipped by UPS and they were stuck outside town with no deliverable address. Syd manages to change the address to our hotel - thank you so much Idyllwild Lodge for the help! She calls UPS and they put a special note to deliver the item early in the day, so our plan is to hang around on Monday to receive the shoes.
The hotel and town is awesome, and our first zero day on Sunday flies by. We resupply for three 5-day sections of trail, check emails and go out for dinner with our new PCT friends, Lightening Rod and Angler.
When shopping for food, I try to balance nutrition, weight and cooking time. Grocery shopping for 15 days was stressful - I don’t want to miss anything nor bring too much. The 15 days will be broken up into three resupplies where two are mailed ahead to trail stops that have very limited options - Acton KOA and Kennedy Meadows South. Anything I don’t eat, I will carry with me. I still have a tuna packet from the first week that I haven’t eaten.
For each 5 day resupply I buy almost the same thing:
Dinners: Annie’s Mac and Cheese, Ichiban instant noodles, instant rice with corn chips and Mexican seasoning, curry with instant rice and cashews and Alfredo instant pasta
Lunches: wraps, cheese and pepperoni
Breakfast: granola, instant coffee and hot chocolate. I love cowboy coffee which is half coffee and half hot chocolate
Snacks (my favourite category!): chips, gummy worms, peanut butter stuffed pretzels, lots of granola bars, cookies, cheesy bunny crackers, Twix chocolate bar, nuun electrolytes and beef jerky
Monday morning arrives, and we are well rested and ready to get back on trail. We run more errands and wait for UPS to call Syd. At 11, Syd gets the call and almost as expected, her package wasn’t put on the truck this morning. We updated the address over the weekend, but it requires a local person to finalize it and they didn’t arrive in the office until after the truck had left. Our new plan is to mail the package to Big Bear and since I need new shoes and we are the same size, I’ll purchase a pair and Syd can wear them while we hike to her shoes.
At the gear store, not only do they not have my size in my shoes but no alternative shoes for Syd to purchase. I’m now realizing that getting new shoes will not be as simple as walking into a store on trail. To avoid another shoe debacle, I order myself a pair to arrive when I’m home for my cousin’s wedding. We finally get a bit of luck, and back at the hotel there is Syd’s size of shoes at a hiker box. The shoes are clearly worn, and on their last legs but will have to do for another 90 miles. With a bad compromise for shoes, we are ready to return to trail.
Section Stats:
Day 12 (May 6th): 16.5 miles
Day 13 (May 7th): 8.5 miles
Day 14 (May 8th): Zero! Or first zero day